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Bodegas Bhilar, rebuilders of Rioja
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You likely know our affection for the team behind Bodegas Bhilar. We strongly believe they constantly showcase the best of Rioja. The team of Melanie and David are part of what we would label as the rebuilders of Rioja. That's a strong statement, as if Rioja was falling apart.
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In a way, Rioja had lost its shine with more industrial wines, despite the appearance of "new wave" producers such as Artadi, Roda, Contador more than 15 years ago.
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Rioja's Consejo Regulador has been pushing a message that whatever differences exist in Rioja, they are mainly three main regions (Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Baja - now Rioja Oriental) and quality offerings is a reflection of the amount of time a wine spent in oak, but no other quality criteria, as reflected in the labeling (Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva). There is nothing further from the truth !
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If you've set foot in Rioja, you surely understand that the differences are not between main geographic regions, but between villages. Similarly to Burgundy, terroir is measured in meters, not kilometers. It might read like an exaggeration, but it's truly a reflection of the complexity of the region. The lack of recognition of this complexity by the Consejo Regulador has created turmoil in the region. Some winemakers left the DOCa because they see themselves as part of this alternative Rioja that is brewing and feel nothing can be accomplished without leaving the DOCa behind, while other go on a war within, and do what they can to change things. Regardless of the business approach, there is a strong sense of making things differently, a sense of purpose where the focus is a desire to make the greatest terroir-driven wines, leaving behind the industrial thinking possibly engrained at the Consejo Regulador.
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So, what's the message promoted by these rebels? It's that terroir matters. For consumers, this is more important than knowing how many months a wine has spent in barrels. Labels should reflect the true origins. Not surprisingly, those echoing this message are often part of what has been qualified as Rioja's Côte d'Or or, colloquially, Rioja's VIP Lounge. To quote Tim Atkin who has been spending a lot of time in Rioja in the past 15 years, the most distinguished sites are located on clay/limestone soils to the north and west of the Ebro River in the Sonsierra, an area that includes the villages of Ábalos, Briñas, Elciego, Elvillar, Labastida, Laguardia, Lanciego, Samaniego, San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Villabuena and Villalba.
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The rebel winemakers have been promoting a change in philosophy that has started about 12 years ago, by promoting terroir and making cuvées reflecting small vineyards and their microclimate. We already see the impact of ancestral winemaking methods being put forward, changing the focus from higher yields to expression of the terroir (despite putting a pressure on the price of grapes), limiting interventions, planting in higher altitude, changing farming practices by adopting sustainable agriculture and implementing organic farming and, like Bodegas Bhilar have done, embracing biodynamic viticulture.
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There is so much more to say about the transformation of Rioja. For those looking to learn more, I recommend Tim Atkin's annual Rioja report. For now, you can also focus on drinking Rioja's from the trailblazers, like Abel Mendoza and Maite Fernández, Artuke, José Gil, Marcos Eguren, Sandra Bravo... and of course, David Sampedro and Melanie Hickman of Bodegas Bhilar.
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Life is short: Abramos las botellas, ¡copón!
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Get your taste buds ready !
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We'll be sending a few more newsletters in the coming weeks to talk specifically about some wines on hand, but for now, maybe a few words about what is going on at the winery.
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The team at Bhilar has been working hard to convert all their plots to biodynamic farming, an effort that started 16 years ago. This effort has been recognized by becoming the first biodynamic Demeter certified estate in Rioja Alavesa. The vineyards received certification in 2021 and from vintage 2023, the labels will reflect this.
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In addition to the certifications, Melanie and David have accomplished a lot more:
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- their estate is now 100% off the grid (solar and wind power only)
- Continuous planting of indigenous shrubs and trees to increase biodiversity
- Self-sustaining farm with vegetable garden, eggs, bees, geese, horses and compost
- Parcel of oats, barley and sainfoin dedicated to fodder for horses
- 3,4 HA parcel dedicated to Regenerative Agriculture education
- Water harvesting and storage
These guys have been keeping busy!
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Viura vine, Hapa Vineyard
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INVENTORY
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All the products are available in cases of 6 bottles.
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What does the specialized press have to say about Bodegas Bhilar wines? Here is an excerpt.
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- Phinca Hapa comes from a 1967 planting of the same name in Elvillar and is another brilliant white from the dynamic duo of Melanie Hickman and David Sampedro. Marrying Viura with 10% each of Garnacha Blanca and Malvasía, it underwent carbonic maceration in oak vats. Peppery, spicy and intense, with Riesling-like focus and acidity and a rose petal top note. Drink 2024-30.
94/100 Tim Atkin, Rioja Report 2023
- 2020 was a challenging year, and the (orange) white 2020 Phinca Hapa Blanco is very ripe, at 14.5% alcohol, and at the same time has a light palate, lighter than the 2019 I tasted next to it. It finishes with a slight bitterness. It was bottled in December 2021 after maturing in oak foudre for one year. 3,000 bottles produced. Drink 2022-2026
91 pts — Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate (June 2022)
- The 2019 Phinca Hapa Tinto is a blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Viura from the village of Elvillar, from a plot planted in 1967 at 640
meters in altitude that is farmed biodynamically and plowed by horse. It spent one year in 500–liter barrels and seven months in a large foudre.
It’s spicy and balsamic, with notes of nutmeg, vanilla and cloves, medium to full-bodied and with fine and chalky tannins. 6,000 bottles produced. It
was bottled in September 2021. Drink 2022-2028
93 pts — Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate (June 2022)
- The younger of two available vintages of Phinca Hapa, this comes from a pioneering 2.9-hectare parcel planted on limestone soils at 646 metres back in 1967. Tempranillo is the dominant grape here, with 6% Graciano and 2% Viura, producing a wine that’s pure, chiselled and floral with subtle reduction, red berry fruit and a spicy, whole-bunch finish. 2023-29.
92/100 Tim Atkin, Rioja Report 2022
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To reserve products arriving soon, send us an order form with the mention "reservation". We will contact you to confirm... and when the products arrive, we will inform you before anyone else!
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The products on order can be found here [PDF].
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We also accept special orders for rare products from our producers.
Do not hesitate to contact us to know more.
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The recently updated price list of available products can be found on our website.
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Support us by telling your friends about our amazing wines. Also, we'd appreciate to receive your comments on our Facebook page or on Instagram.
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Thanks for sharing our passion.
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