Bodegas Bhilar, Hapa Blanco 2018
Vineyard : The wine is made from Viura grapes grown in the white limestone Hapa vineyard which Melanie acquired in 2015. Located north of Elvillar, the plots are South-East facing and have been undergoing biodynamic conversion from the first day they signed the acquisition This vineyard is planted with Viura (higher part) and Tempranillo. Most of the vines are 35-50 years old.
In addition to careful vineyard management, the duo has embarked on a project of replanting a very large quantity of plants endogenous to the area.
The other grapes (Garnacha Blanca, Malvasia) are sourced from their Estate vineyard near the winery.
Appellation : DOCa Rioja (sub-region: Rioja Alavesa)
Varieties : 82% Viura, 12% Garnacha Blanca, 6% Malvasia.
Harvest and Production : This artisanal wine is hand harvested in 10 kilo cases following a rigorous selection in the vineyard. Full clusters are spontaneously fermented in concrete vats with indigenous yeasts for 2 months. The carbonic maceration leads to a slow fermentation lasting close to 6 weeks. The wine is then pressed and placed in 600L French foudres for 1 year.
Review of the 2018 Vintage
Fermented with whole clusters and made without sulphur until bottling, this is the sort of wine that confounds local bureaucrats in Rioja but finds favour with more open-minded tasters who recognise its brilliance. Sappy, chalky and slightly tannic, with notes of quince, black tea and fresh bread, this is mind-bogglingly complex. 2021-28.
Wine of the Year
96/100 Tim Atkin, Rioja Report 2020